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CHOSHUENCO DIRECT | MOCHO-CHOSHUENCO | VOLCANOES OF NORTHERN, CHILEAN PATAGONIA | REGION DE LOS RIOS | CHILE

CHOSHUENCO DIRECT
CHOSHUENCO DIRECT
Date Created: 09/19/2010
Last Updated: 09/19/2010
Ranking:Premier
Skiable Vert:3000 ft
Climbing Vert:2900 ft
Top Elevation:7900 ft
Trailhead Elevation:5000 ft
Ascent Mileage:3
AVG Ascent Time:3.5 hours
Ascent Type:Skin, Easy Crampon/snow axe
Trees:none
Slope Aspect:East
Steepest Section:35-45 Degrees
Slope Type:Face
Exit:Clean
First Descent:Unknown
Nearest Town:Neltume, Chile
AVG Snowfall:400+
Snowpack:In Chile, the labels of Maritime, IC, and Continental don't work. All the mountains are within 100 miles of the Pacific Ocean. It is LATITUDE that makes the difference.

The areas of the Lakes District and Northern Patagonia receive a ton of precipitation, but the moisture content can change dramatically between storms. The stability tends to go through dramatic peaks and valleys depending on timing with the storm. Generally, a day or two after a storm you will find stable, consolidated conditions.

Highlights

There are almost too many to list. Two beautiful summits, with really simple touring and navigation. There are first descents to be had for sure! The afternoon light, and sunsets are mind-blowing! Plan to spend a little extra cash to stay in the hotels Baobob or Montaņa Magica. It's a little more pricey than other parts of Chile, (although still much cheaper than the ski resorts) but you get awesome food, access to the best microbrew in Chile, and hot tubs, etc.

Ascent

If headed for Choshuenco directly, climb up out of the "ski area" and go through a short canyon that may have a snowcat or snowmobile track in it. From here, you should see a small serac, mid-elevation on the mountain between the two summits. Head for this valley. Be aware that as you get higher, this is an old glacier. Early in the season crevasses are well filled in, but later they open and are big enough to be dangerous. There is a small point that sticks out from the plateau that separates the two peaks. This is your target. From here, the Choshuenco is an easy skin away. Right below the summit there are crevasses and bergschrunds that you have to be aware of. If you are nervous, stay to the climber's left and you'll be fine.

Descent

Take your pick! It's wicked. The only real hazard is the weather. The clouds can close in so quickly. Carrying a GPS is highly advisable. If there is convective activity, pay close attention to where you are, and how you will exit in a moment's notice. Rescue from this peak will take a very long time. Don't count on it.

Access/Permits

This volcano lies within a PRIVATELY owned wilderness preserve. The volcano itself is national property, but the access is private regulated. The management is welcoming of people attempting to ski the volcano without a guide, but there may be a fee to use the access road. It is advisable to check in with the operators of the "Centro de Nieve" the day before attempting to summit. Go to the Hotel Baobob and track down either someone from management, or if possible, directly with a gentleman named Antonio. Doing this will get you the most time on the mountain. Forgoing this step may mean that they ask you to return to the "ski area" by 3:30. You do not want to do this, as the afternoon light is unbelievable and there is a ton to explore. No one wants to tell you no. They just want to know that they're not going to have to do a rescue in the evening.

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Alpineambitions: September 17, 2010 Uphill: 2,900 ft. | Downhill: 2,900 ft.

Wicked afternoon ski of Volcan Mocho-Choshuenco. See the route "Choshuenco Direct" for details....[view]

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Comments

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powderjunky wrote on 09/19/10 at 12:22:46 am pst:

Looks like a great area, Thanks for sharing!

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