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Skiing the Frozen Continent of Antarctica: Part 6 (Somewhere off the Antarctic Peninsula) | 04/12/2010, by BrennanLagasse
Somewhere off the Antarctic Peninsula
The rest of the day was spent relaxing, taking in our surroundings, and plans were made for the remainder of the day. As we sailed to a sheltered cove the sun came out, birds showed up to follow the ships progress as more whales were spotted, and penguins danced on the coastline. Daylight was running dry and because we had gone so far north darkness was actually going to come for a least a few hours. Thus the decision was made that most parties would visit a nearby penguin rookery up close and not ski.
Our crew buzzed around in the zodiac, passed the penguin rookery on for a morning mission, and took shots of the crazy icebergs and humongous leopard seals that were interested in our presence.
The stars were out in full force that night planting seeds of hope that the sun would return for the morning. At first, it held out behind a thick glaze of cloud cover, but in reality it was fine as my group took an early morning ride to hang with the penguins up and close.
Honestly, they are such cool animals to spend some time with. They are so unique in how they travel up and down slope and nest into little holes that they actually defend as territory from other penguins. They are also quite frisky creatures especially in that it was mating season. There was definitely a lot of action happening that morning of our visit.
After the rookery we headed for a spot that looked like it would give us a good jump on a sick looking zone to ski in for the day. Remember that thing I told you about terrain looking all mellow when in fact it is not? Our drop off was right at the foot of nothing that looked outrageous. We all thought we were going to skin it at first. But we couldn't, and Andrew actually built an anchor for us to tie into as we climbed on belay with crampons and ice axes up to where we could actually start skinning.
Sam Bass, an editor for Skiing Magazine along with our expedition leader Doug Stoup joined us for the day. The zone were found ourselves in had several worthy objectives that could be shot from multiple vantage points. After the ski stars got a few shots in Doug took off and the rest of us skinned to the top of a peak at the head of the ridge. As we crested towards the top the view outward was of nothing but ocean. It was another gorgeous summit holding the potential that we were the first to ever sit on top, and ski back down.
Looking out there were groups spread miles apart from each other, all with access to amazing peaks. This area was surely set up for an expedition like ours as everyone had clear access to a peak all for themselves. When my group cruised back to the section of ice and snow we had climbed up in the morning Andrew set up another anchor for us to clip in and rappel with skis on down to a safe spot. A huge seal waited for us near our lifejackets at the pick up spot as our driver arrived with a few cold beers to refresh us after our thirteen hour mission. A few more drinks flowed that evening and I must say that good scotch tastes amazing with a chunk of glacial ice from the ocean.
Later on, Doug informed me my group was stoked on my work and he intended to let me freeski away from them to get some more vertical in the following day. I was so thankful that he was pleased as I was still holding the mentality that if he asked me to mop the bathrooms at that moment, I would have jumped at the order.
Read the complete story here:
Unexpected Bliss
The Martial Glacier
Crossing the Infamous Drake Passage
Land Ho!
The Lemaire Channel
Somewhere off the Antarctic Peninsula
Unloading the Pack in the South Shetland Islands
Ship of Fools
Another Powder Day in Ushuaia and the Epicness of El Chalten
That's Our Opinion. What's Yours?
Susan wrote on 04/12/10 at 8:32:54 pm pst:
Love the penguins!
Scotty wrote on 04/13/10 at 09:15:03 am pst:
Damn, that just looks all sorts of silly awesome.
Freeheelgirl wrote on 04/13/10 at 11:37:47 am pst:
Wow, I'm overwhelmed with jealousy, Darkstar! Thanks for the vicarious adventure.
Freeheelgirl wrote on 04/13/10 at 11:38:19 am pst:
PS - any pictures of those leopard seals?
Dark Star wrote on 04/13/10 at 1:32:45 pm pst:
I never got any good ones of the leopard seals, but I know someone sent me a pic or two so I'll see if I can find something to share.
And I never would have thought they'd be so big. Those things are HUGE! It was a riot, they totally followed the zodiaks around. I thought it was just fun, but then the driver told me if my hand was too close to the water, it may disappear. Needless to say I was alittle more reserved around the Leopard seals after that.
Dark Star wrote on 04/19/10 at 07:46:14 am pst:
Sorry I can't find those Leopard seal pics...if they turn up I'll post'em at some point:)
Freeheelgirl wrote on 04/19/10 at 09:26:04 am pst:
Hey, Dark Star! If you haven't already, you should read "Shackleton's Boat Journey", by Frank Wolsey, Shackleton's pilot. It has some fantastic account of the crew's self-rescue in refurbished wooden life boats...leopard seals would hunt the men when they were standing on ice floes! The seals would deliberately bump the floes and try to get them to slide off into the water...once in awhile, they actually chased them across the ice, too! Harrowing tales, plus an incredible sea voyage - I'm jealous of your Antarctic trip, I've been fascinated by the place and have wanted to see it ever since I read about Shackleton's spectacular failure. Lucky you! And yes - would LOVE to see seal pictures, if you can find them!! Cheers - Freeheelgirl
